Recently we had guests over for dinner and the conversation turned to how to achieve the best backyard barbecue. Fortunately, several of the people were serious home chefs who love to cook.

Two of our foodie friends, Lou and Stephen, got into a heated conversation about how they prepare meat or fish, how long it takes to fire up the barbecue, different spices to use, and the effort it takes to make a successful barbecue.

After much discussion, we all came to the conclusion that there should be a cook-off. Lou and Stephen both chose to barbecue salmon — Lou opted for Cedar Plank Salmon with veggies, while Stephen marinated his salmon in a sealable storage bag with peanut oil and whiskey.

Salmon is very versatile — it can be cooked whole, cut as either a boneless fillet or a steak, and has the texture needed to hold together during the grilling process. It also has a range of flavor from rich to mild, and can take on a char without losing its unique taste.

We chose a date and location for the cook-off. Guests were required to bring side dishes — roasted peppers with anchovies, potato salad, coleslaw, corn on the cob, beans and an array of salads. For dessert, I volunteered an olive oil cake, a recipe by Dario Cecchini, the famous Tuscan butcher from Italy whom I feature in my new cookbook, “Italy Cooks.” This is the only dessert he serves in his Ristorante Solo Ciccia.

After dinner, each guest was asked to choose the best barbecue chef. Ballots were handed out and we were asked to vote on two categories — taste and presentation. An impartial judge tallied the votes in what turned out to be very close competition. Stephen was the winner in the taste category, and Lou won for best presentation. 

PEPPERONI ARROSTITI CON ACCIUGHE

∗ (Roasted Peppers With Anchovies) (From “Italy Cooks” by Judy Zeidler)
∗ 4 to 6 firm, crisp red, yellow or green bell peppers
∗ 2 to 3 garlic cloves, minced
∗ Olive oil
∗ 1 jar or can (2 ounces) anchovy fillets
∗ Parsley sprigs for garnish

Preheat the oven to 425 or 450 F.

Place a large sheet of foil on the lower rack of the oven. Place the peppers on the rack above, in the middle or top of the oven. Bake for 15 to 20 minutes or until the skin has puffed and darkened slightly on top. Turn each pepper over and continue baking 10 to 15 minutes longer.

Remove the peppers from the oven, and while they are still warm, carefully peel off the skins. Pull out the stems and discard the seeds. Cut the peppers into segments that follow their natural ridges. Layer the peppers in a bowl with their juices, the garlic and enough oil to cover. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate. When ready to serve, arrange the peppers on a serving dish and garnish with anchovies and sprigs of parsley. Or place an anchovy fillet in the center of each segment, roll up and place a toothpick in the center.

Makes 8 to 10 servings.

CLASSIC CREAMY COLESLAW

The delicious dressing is prepared with only three ingredients — mayonnaise, sugar and lemon juice. It is best prepared no more than two hours before serving.

∗ 1 cup Mayonnaise Sauce (recipe follows)
∗ 1 large head green cabbage (about 2 pounds), cored and shredded
∗ 2 large carrots, shredded

Prepare Mayonnaise Sauce, cover, and refrigerate until ready to use.

In a large bowl, combine cabbage and carrots. Toss with Mayonnaise Sauce, cover with plastic wrap, and chill.

Makes 8 servings.

MAYONNAISE SAUCE

∗ 1 cup mayonnaise
∗ 2 tablespoons sugar
∗ 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
∗ Salt to taste
∗ Freshly ground black pepper to taste

In a small bowl, blend together mayonnaise, sugar, lemon juice, salt and pepper. Cover with plastic wrap, and chill. This will keep for several days in the refrigerator.

Makes about 1 1/2 cups.

BEST-EVER POTATO SALAD

Potato salad can always come to the rescue at party time, as it can be made ahead and served with so many dishes, from sandwiches to entrees. I add lots of crunchy, colorful vegetables to a classic recipe to perk up the potato flavor.

∗ 12 small red-skinned potatoes (2 1/2 to 3 pounds)
∗ 1 tablespoon kosher salt
∗ 1 1/2 cups diced celery
∗ 1 red bell pepper, seeded and diced
∗ 1 green bell pepper, seeded and diced
∗ 1 yellow bell pepper, seeded and diced
∗ 4 hard-cooked eggs, coarsely chopped
∗ 1 cup mayonnaise
∗ 4 green onions, finely sliced (1/2 cup)
∗ 1/2 cup minced fresh parsley
∗ Salt to taste
∗ Freshly ground black pepper to taste
∗ Red and yellow bell pepper slices for garnish
∗ 1/2 cup minced chives for garnish

Scrub potatoes well with a vegetable brush, but do not peel.

In a large heavy pot, cover potatoes with cold water. Add kosher salt. Bring to a boil over high heat, cover, reduce heat, and simmer until tender when tested with the tip of a knife, 15 to 20 minutes (remove smaller potatoes first to prevent overcooking). Cool and dice.

In a large bowl, combine potatoes, celery, diced bell peppers and hard-cooked eggs. Add just enough mayonnaise to moisten ingredients; toss gently. Add green onions and parsley; season to taste with salt and pepper, and toss again. Garnish with red and yellow bell pepper slices and chives.

Makes 10 to 12 servings.